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Martin around 1:30pm. There was a 4:20 flight, but it was cancelled. So, I was pushed to the 6:00pm flight. It
started to rain in St. Martin. The flight was delayed another two hours. We finally took off in the drizzle. After
20-30 minutes in the air, we were informed by the pilot that we had to turn back, because of inclement weather in
St. Kitts and Nevis. After much hassle to reclaim our luggage and reticket for the next morning, a group of us
shared a taxi to the Maho Beach Hotel. The group included a nice Jewish couple from NYC and one other
couple. We checked in around 11pm. I finally got a chance to have dinner, a sub at a nearby Subway.
Sunday, December 28: After dinner, I got to sleep for about 5 hours, before awaking to catch the 7am flight. I
finally made it to Nevis. Checked in to the Inn at Cades Bay. The manager, Edie, was very helpful and kind.
After resting an hour or so, I was picked up to go to the rental car agency. Once I had my car, decided to see
the island some. I kept driving the ring road around the perimeter of the island away from the direction I had
come, counter-clockwise. My first stop of interest was Montpelier Plantation. This was originally a Sugar Cane
Plantation from the 18th Century that was converted into an upscale resort. It is set on the mountainside
surrounded by lush vegetation, small critters running about (lizards, birds, goats, …), an elegant pool, tennis
courts, and the centerpiece, the preserved Sugar Mill. The Mill was air powered, a windmill, and would crush
the sweet nectar out of the Sugar Cane. Then the juice would be boiled until only the sugar remained. This was
the largest industry on Nevis as well as many other Caribbean islands during the time of slavery. Now, the main
industry is tourism here. After the plantation/resort, I attempted to go to the well regarded Botanical Gardens.
Unfortunately, but half expectedly, it was closed on this Sunday. I was going to continue driving around the
islands ring road, but as I discovered the road was only improved/smooth around about half of the island, so I
had to turn back the way I had come. About halfway back to my hotel, I drove through the main part of town,
Charlestown. I stopped by the Ferry dock to get the schedule for tomorrow, in case I needed to fly out of St.
Kitts. Next, I stopped at the Sunset Beach, a popular public beach. I walked up to the exclusive 4 Seasons
beach from there and ran into the NYC couple. I played with a monkey there (pics). Then I drove past my
place to investigate at the airport where I could fly and when. I learned that I could fly to Antigua from Nevis,
much to my relief. I was informed that I didn’t have to go to St. Kitts first. Once back to Cades Bay Inn, I was
so tired that I ended up staying in this evening.
Monday, December 29: I had a much needed long shower and shave. Breakfast was excellent at Cades Bay
Inn. You can sit outside under a roof right by the beach, enjoying the ocean breeze and the methodical crashing
waves. The banana pancakes were incredible, light inside with a firm crunchy outside. It came with well done
bacon and an assortment of fresh fruit. After checking out, I returned my rental car and caught a ride to the
airport by the cousin of the owner. He was a nice young man around 18-19. He was living most of the year in
Queens working in his father’s ice-cream truck business. They spend a part of the winter with their kin here in
Nevis, because the ice-cream business is poor in the North-eastern U.S. during the winter months and to escape
the cold. (*Nevis – not much to do, quiet, non-commercial)
cont. Monday, December 29: I caught my flight to Antigua via St. Kitts (brief stop-over). At the airport the
kind ladies at the Information Desk helped me book a hotel. It took 4 or 5 calls to find one due to the season. I
ended up at the Hawksbill Beach resort, an All-Inclusive located near Five Islands immediately south of the main
town of St. Johns. Once I settled in, I took a nap until dinner. At dinner I met Jodie, Kim and Bernardo. Jodie’
s from Michigan, Kim’s from Ft. Lauderdale and Bernardo is from Peru. They are all currently living in San Juan,
Puerto Rico. They are all scuba divers hoping to dive in Antigua and have scheduled dives in Dominica. We had
a nice dinner getting to know one another and enjoying the all-you-can-eat buffet. After dinner, Jodie taught us
all how to play Ueker, a card game. We drank the local drink, rum, Malibu and Pineapple Juice and played our
new game. We had fun this evening. Time for bed.
Tuesday, December 30: Met Jodie, Kim, and Bernardo for breakfast. We decided to explore the island
today. Our first stop was English Harbor. On the way to English Harbor, we drove by Falmouth Harbor.
Falmouth is a beautiful large bay where many boats are moored. English Harbor is a very well protected harbor
due to its winding shape. “Since 1704 this harbor has been in use, first as a garrisoned station by the British.
Lord Horatio Nelson at 26 years old served as captain and second-on-command of the Leeward Island Station”
here in 1784. Today you will find many yachts, shops, restaurants and bars with much character. Also, here you
will find “Nelson Dockyard,” which was restored in 1951 to appear as it did in the mid 19th century before it fell
into disrepair. It has a similar feel to Colonial Williamsburg, but on a “much smaller scale.” We saw a show
about the history of the island at the Fort next to Shirley Heights. From here there are sensational vistas of the
whole English Harbor area. Our next stop was Harmony Hall, which houses many wonderful art works by some
of the most accomplished West Indies’ artists, including sculpture, paintings, jewelry and handicrafts. There is
also a replica of an old Sugar Mill with steps to the top for a view of the surrounding countryside and a circular
bench to relax and enjoy. Harmony Hall is also a resort hotel, which has a distinct Italian influence. There is a
pool and a beautiful outdoor/indoor restaurant. Then we went to Devil’s Bride, a “limestone arch formation,
sculpted by the crashing breakers of the Atlantic.” When the waves roll in, they pass under this natural bridge, hit
the rock wall behind it and the water blows straight up in the air between the bridge and the rock wall – very
cool. On the way back, we drove through Parham, which was supposedly an “example of a traditional colonial
settlement.” But, it only appeared to be a typical low-income Caribbean town with an old run-down historic
church. So, the tour ended with a little disappointment. But, all in all it was a good day. We got back just in
time to catch the sunset from our hotel. Every two minutes the sky would change color and form – very
beautiful. I then went to take a nap before dinner. After dinner, the four of us played cards again. This time
Hearts: Queen of Spades = 13 points, Hearts = 1 point, lead card always the 2 of Clubs, first to 100 loses,
“Shooting the Moon” = take all the points in one hand, dealer chooses if 2 cards give to another player before
start hand, once out of suit can through anything, no hearts first round, … Time for bed.
Wednesday, December 31: Awoke early to make our pick-up. Conrad, the owner of Kayak Eco Adventure,
drove us from our resort to the east side of the island for our day of outdoor adventure. Once at his base camp,
we caught a boat to where we would set off on our kayaking trip. Most kayaks were two person ones, so Kim
and I paired up and Jodie and Bernardo paired. We paddled into the mangroves and were given some
interesting insight as to how the mangroves serve as a very important part of the ecosystem. Mangroves are the
rookeries of some 70-80% of all the fish in the oceans. We then paddled amongst and between the mangroves
and smaller islands for about an hour or so stopping occasionally to listen to our guide teach us about the flora,
fauna and recent history of the surrounding area (i.e.: effects of recent Hurricanes, what is happening on each of
the small islands – Michael Jackson putting 40 llamas on one island, 4 lived because no fresh water source, Big 8
accounting firm with mansion for execs on one island, Ritz willing to pay $10M for a portion of a small island that
was bought for $20,000 about 10 years before by Italian investors, …). After returning the kayaks, we took the
motorboats to one of the other small islands for a view from the top, after a short hike. Then we did a little
snorkeling. The water did not have great visibility due to all the on and off rain we’ve been having lately, but I got
to see some beautiful fish and plant life anyway. I saw a school of yellow and white fish about 6-8” long, many
colorful Parrot and Clown fish, large sea fans, coral brains, … After our snorkel, we motored back … what a
beautiful place! Once back at our hotel/resort, we had a late lunch then I passed out. I slept on the top of my
sheets with no cover. It was a liberating feeling. I slept like a baby in the warm air of the tropical afternoon
listening to the rhythmic sounds of the breaking waves.
Time to prepare for our New Years Eve dinner and night out partying. I have decided to accept the invitation
of my new group of friends and join them when they head to Dominica tomorrow for diving, … Met the group
for dinner. Hawksbill put together a very good dinner for New Years. They had a Steel Drum band playing
before and during dinner. For dinner you could choose from a pre-set menu. I had the salmon with lobster
appetizer, the asparagus soup, the salad, the Mahi Mahi, and the Napoleon desert. It was all very good except
the cake part of the Napoleon had too much rum in it. After dinner we decided to find a more happening New
Year’s party. We drove through town (St. Johns) to Runaway Bay, where we stopped at Lashings Restaurant
and Bar. It was pretty quiet here. But, it looked like a great place to hang out at the end of a day on the beach
at sunset. We then went to The Beach in Dickenson Bay. There were more people here, but most were just
hanging out at their dinner tables. The band was good and the environment was very nice, open air and on the
beach. We kept going. Even though the Rex Halcyon Cove Bay Resort had a gate house, we agreed to give it a
try. They let us right in. The scene was very up beat with a fun calypso, ska band and many people of all ages
enjoying themselves, dancing, drinking and socializing. We stayed here to celebrate New Years. There was a
fireworks display on the beach at New Years. To add to the mood, the moon was reflecting brightly off the
water. Then we danced a little. It was an enjoyable New Years with new friends. Time for bed.
Thursday, January 1: It’s a New Year!
Breakfast with the gang. We decided to relax on the beach at Hawksbill today, because we were heading to
Dominica this afternoon to go diving. Bernardo and Kim both invited me to join them on this trip that they had
pre-planned and pre-booked. After breakfast with the help of the staff at the Front Desk, I was quickly able to
book the same flight and same accommodations as my new travel companions. I then met them on the beach
where we celebrated New Year’s Day with some tasty eggnog. I changed into my shorts and walked down the
beach we were on plus the next two beaches of Hawksbill to see what the area was like. The beach we were on
was the busiest with all of the resorts activities (snorkeling, sailing, kayaking, windsurfing, skiing, …) plus the bar
and the pool. The next beach south was rather small and quiet. But, the following beach, the furthest south at
Hawksbill, had a good number of people and was/is a nude beach. There was a nude family (the son had a
bathing suit on), nude couples (many) and nude singles. I walked back to join my group for a few minutes before
I had to wash-up, change, pack, check out and head to the airport. I dropped my rental car with no problem,
then bought my airline ticket. I met back up with my group at the departure terminal. There was an adorable
little black girl (about 6) who kept flirting with me. When I tried to talk to her, I couldn’t understand a word she
was saying in her broken English.
cont. Thursday, January 1: The flight to Dominica was fairly uneventful accept for that the man next to me was
very inconsiderate. The world is made up of all kinds, so deal with it. The ride to our hotel was long, it was night
time, and there were many bumps. So, the ride wasn’t very pleasant. Upon our arrival at the Sunset Bay Club,
we put our luggage in our rooms then headed to dinner. Dinner was very good. It was prepared by one of the
owners of the hotel, the husband. After dinner we learned a new card game from Kim called Spades. Very
similar to Hearts except you want the hands, the cards in the spade suit are the only ones you can use to trump,
you guess how many hands you (or your team) will win up front. If you get the number exactly, you add a zero
to it. If you are one below you add a zero and make it negative. If you get one more then your guess you add 1
to the original number, … Time for bed … we dive tomorrow.
Friday, January 2: Awoke early to dive. I got set up with my gear, then sat down for breakfast. The boat ride
out to the first dive site was long, rainy and very chilly. We were not happy, nor enjoying the trip to this point.
But, then came the dives and the sun. Our first dive was Scott’s Head Point, near the southern tip of Dominica.
We dove fairly deep 75-85’ and saw many beautiful fish and plant life, including: a spotted eel, trunk fish, parrot
fish, sergeant major (blue, white and red stripe?), sea fans, brain coral, … After lunch on the boat, we dove
again. This time site was/is called Coral South and the depth was about 35 feet. Since it was not as deep, we
stayed down nearly an hour. Also, we got to see many types of fish: a sea turtle, fire worms (similar to a
centipede, but colorful, flatter and wider), flounder, puffer fish, barracuda, trunk fish, cow fish, garden eels (rising
out of the sand, approx 20), trumpet fish, … For one dive we saw quite a large variety of interesting animal life
and plant life. The next (3rd) dive, Bernardo and I chose to sit out. We warmed ourselves in the sun while the
others dove. We ate, drank, spoke to the dive assistant, and eventually I took a short nap, very nice. The ride
back was much better. We saw a school of Bonita fish jumping out of the water. We saw the sunset, the moon
brighten into existence and many small towns nestled along the coast and at the bases of the mountains along the
coast. I enjoyed talking with Anthony, the 12 year old son of Katia, the daughter of the owners. He was a very
bright and mature 12 years old. He had been diving and certified since he was 10. Once back, Kim, Bernardo,
Anthony and I took a sauna. We met up with some Austrians in the sauna, who showed us proper sauna
technique. We all got a good sweat going. After Kim left, Bernardo, Anthony and I got very hot in the sauna
then went outside for a cool down in the pool. It was wonderful. After about 5 minutes we went back to the
sauna for another 10 minutes or so. One more dip in the pool, then back to our rooms for a shower then dinner.
I tried Barracuda for the first time tonight. It was really very good, as was the soup and the ice-cream desert.
We played some more Spades tonight, before heading to our rooms to read and write.
Saturday, January 3: Breakfast with the group before our dive. The trip to our first dive site was only about
10 minutes. The site was/is called Nose Reef, because there is a reef which looks like an upside down nose.
This dive was fairly deep. Most of the dive we were between 70-85’, our time under was about 45 minutes and
the visibility was good, not great at around 60’. We saw a huge Moray Eel – the biggest one I’ve ever scene,
Fire Worms – you touch them and they flair up around their edge with little white like cotton balls, a Lizard Fish,
a very large crab in a coral tube, … The dive was very nice. I’m feeling very comfortable now in the water. At
our second site, we all got in the water, but Andre – our dive master, determined that the current was too swift,
so we all got back in the boat – the shortest dive of my career. We ended up back near our hotel for the 2nd
dive, the final dive of our trip together. The name of the site was/is Coral Garden. Because of the current, we
made the second dive a Drift Dive between 25-35’. The visibility was very good, between 70-80’. We saw
much animal life, including: a large lobster, a Sea Cucumber – we pet it, a Cleaner Shrimp – similar to a tiny
lobster, clear color, in the anemone – fingers jelly like, white, Drummer Fish – brown and white with a plum
coming from the top of its head, Spotted Eel – out of its hole, by a free-standing plant, Fire Worms – many,
Spotted Yellow Eel – yellow with brown spots, looks like a snake with two prongs/feelers in front, a school of
Southern Sennet – silver fish, … This dive lasted about an hour and was excellent, warm water, great visibility,
calm flowing water and beauty everywhere – hard to beat. Upon our return, I rinsed off, then we had lunch.
After lunch, we met on the beach to read and relax. After reading a while, we ordered some Pina Coladas and
enjoyed watching the sun go down. Bernardo and I jumped in the ocean for a bit to cool off. Once back on
shore, we chatted as the sun finished setting. It was a beautiful sunset. I showered and then met the group by the
restaurant. I played with Marisa, Katia’s daughter, who was four and a half. She was very sweet. We had a
nice dinner and Marisa joined us for a while before she had to go take a nap. We finished off our last full day
together playing cards as usual. We played Ueker by our rooms, outside. This is the game where you only play
with the 10 through Ace of each suit and the 5’s are used for scoring. The person to the right of the dealer starts
by either calling the Trump suit or passing. The Trump suit is one of the 10 through Aces of a given suit, plus the
Jack of the suit with the corresponding color. The Jack’s are the highest. After one game all of us were very
tired – time for bed.
Sunday, January 4: I had just awoken when the Hostess called in through my window that the Ferry would be
leaving in an hour from Ruosso and the cab was on the way. I dressed and packed in ten minutes, then said my
good byes to my new friends. These were the first people with which I actually traveled during this adventure, so
it was a little hard to leave them knowing that I would be alone again. I caught the Ferry, but not without some
difficulty. I arrived at the terminal without a ticked and the regular office was closed, seeing that it was a Sunday.
I had to wait until everyone else had checked in to see if there would be room for me. I got on. (*Dominica –
rich, lush island, unspoiled, great diving and non-commercial)