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cont. Friday, May 14: I drove to Jacob Lake, the last town before the entrance to the Grand Canyon. The one hotel there didn’t have accommodations, so I had to drive back to Karab, right over the state line in Utah. I found another Best Western there. The drive was very nice, on my right side were open plains with cows grazing and wildflowers and on my left was the edge of the plateau rising up with its exposed strata. The drive also took me up in the mountains with its forests of ferns and poplar and vistas of the valley below. This was a good day.
Saturday, May 15: Today, I drove from Kanab, AZ to Kayenta, AZ. My main destination was the Grand Canyon. This I had expected to be one of the highlights of my journey and the most impressive natural site in North America. I wasn’t disappointed. I drove to the North Rim of the Canyon, which is 1,000 feet higher than the South Rim and much wider. Needless to say, but the views were spectacular, breathtaking. It was so incredible. It almost didn’t seem real. My first stop in the park was the Visitor Center at Bright Angel Point. I learned a little about the history, the plant and animal life and the geological evolution of this area. Next to the Visitor Center are rental log cabins and a main lodge. All were built in the early 1900’s, are rustic and have a natural, cozy feel. The views from the lodge and from the tip of Bright Angel Point are wonderful (photos). My next stop was Point Imperial. From here you can see one of the main tributaries, which feeds the Colorado River. The views here are even better, more spectacular. The Canyon goes a mile to a mile and a half down. My last stop and the most beautiful of all was Cape Royal Overlook. This is the only place on the North Rim where you can see a part of the Colorado River. On the walk out to the tip there is a view point where you can look-out and see a large, natural opening cut into the large abutment/cliff sticking out. This is referred to as Angel’s Window. Angel’s Window is located right next to Cape Royal Overlook. From the Grand Canyon, I decided to head to Monument Valley. It would be about a 3-4 hour drive and the sun was going down. I relearned that it is not very easy to see on unlit, country roads at night, especially when the moon is blocked by clouds. I ended up at a run down motel outside of the small town of Kayenta.
Sunday, May 16: I drove from Kayenta, AZ to Flagstaff, AZ today with stops at Monument Valley and the Petrified Forest National Parks. I had breakfast at a diner associated with my motel. I ate at the counter. The older men next to me, the owners and the staff were all Native Americans and they were speaking in their native tongue. I realize that there are many Indian reservations here in the south-west and many Native Americans live in this area. But, this was my first real experience in the midst of these proud people living their daily lives in America. It is obvious they are trying to keep, maintain some of their culture while living in modern society – a tough balance. The drive to Monument Valley was very nice with a few buttes, mesas and unusual rock formations to wet my appetite. The Park itself isn’t part of the National Park system. Rather, it is part of the Indian Reservation, which spans parts of N.M., AZ, and UT. The 17 mile scenic drive was unpaved gravel and dirt – a bit rough on my front wheel drive Saab. But, the views were worth it. I think that I got some really good shots. Most people will recognize this region from the movies: including, John Ford’s famous Stagecoach and many others. It’s a desert climate with rolling hills and these large rock outcroppings, buttes and mesas scattered about – very unusual and awe-inspiring. I got on the road towards the Petrified Forest National Park and Painted Desert. I got there just before sunset and decided to see them today, as opposed to tomorrow, then spend the night in Flagstaff – another two hour drive. It was a lot of driving today, but I accomplished a lot. The Painted Desert is part of the Petrified Forest National Park. The views from Kachina Point and Pintado Point in the Painted Desert were very beautiful – rolling hills of multi-colored rocks and sand with mountains in the distance. From there, I drove south along the parks scenic drive into the Petrified Forest. My first stop was at Newspaper Rock where they have permanent binoculars, so that you can look at the multitude of petroglyphs etched into the rocks below. The ancient people here would etch various scenes from there daily lives in these rocks. I could recognize animals they hunted, astronomical features, warriors, etc. At the Tepees, layers of various mineral deposits form cone shaped mountains. At Jasper Forest, there are hundreds of petrified logs strewn about in the valley below. The highlight for me was the Crystal Forest and Trail, where you can walk amongst, next to, and touch these marvels of nature. These petrified logs were formed approximately 225 million years ago, during the Late Triassic Period. Giant trees fell and were washed into the floodplain below, “silt, mud and volcanic ash then covered the logs. Silica laden groundwater seeped through the logs and replaced the original wood tissue with silica deposits. The silica crystallized into quartz, and the logs were preserved as petrified wood.” Millions of years later this whole region was thrust upwards and then erosion cleared the layers of sediment away to expose these treasures. Walking amongst them and touching them was like taking a journey back in time. These objects are bizarre and very beautiful at the same time. The sun was setting by the time I was leaving – a gorgeous sunset over the desert. I drove into Flagstaff on Rt. 40, had dinner downtown and found a motel on Rt. 66 to crash in for the night.
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Monday, May 17: After breakfast, I drove through the downtown historic district in Flagstaff. It’s the same area I had dinner last night. I wanted to see it during the daylight. There are a lot of nice, small shops and restaurants here and much of the original architecture remains giving it a quaint, comfortable feel. I spotted a dog sitting upright on a plastic chair outside a restaurant. This large black dog’s hind legs were folded underneath him and its front legs were straight. I tried circling the block to a get a picture, but he was gone by the time I got back. Sometimes you need to be able to recognize an opportunity quickly and act without hesitation. I did manage to take a photo of a typical street in this historic district. From here I drove to the Lowell Observatory. The astronomer Lowell is famous for the discovery of the sister planet of Pluto (?). The observatory has a small museum, which is very interesting. It has interactive computers, where it allows you to enter in the speed you would like to travel in light years per day and your ultimate destination. Then you can watch the screen to see your progress through the universe – pretty cool. There are also meteors you can touch amongst other interesting exhibits. I got on I-17 towards Phoenix. About ten miles from downtown Phoenix, there was a huge traffic jam. I learned that a large truck had taken out a highway sign the night before and they had to shut down both lanes temporarily to fix it. I found an alternative route to the city. Along the way, I spotted a Starbucks. I was able to get on-line and book my flights for my buddy Brian’s wedding, buy his wedding gift, respond to e-mails, etc. What did we do before the internet? From there, I drove through downtown – mostly office buildings, sports arenas and a civic center. It was clean, well organized and nice, but no one seemed to live here. I drove to a Houstons in Phoenix, but not downtown, more like between downtown and Scottsdale.
Tuesday, May 18: I brought my car in today to have the “Check Engine” light looked at. After running the diagnostic, they informed me that my engine was running lean, but there was no one fix that they could guarantee would fix it. At least, they were honest and didn’t take advantage. I drove, went for a drive around downtown Scottsdale. There are many art galleries here and older buildings – charming. Then I went to the mall, where I got my hair cut, ate in the food court, and saw a movie, “Mean Girls.” The movie was entertaining and well done for a youth oriented movie.
Wednesday, May 19: Day of R&R
May 20 to May 24: Caught plane to DC for my friend Brian’s wedding - I was in the wedding party
Tuesday, May 25: Being in Phoenix, Scottsdale, I thought it only natural to spend half a day at a spa. I called around and finally booked a full body massage and facial at the Scottsdale Plaza Resort – Salon. The facilities there are not posh by any means, but they are adequate. I took a fifteen minute sauna before my hour long body massage. Then I had a 45 minute facial, which includes a head, shoulder and hand massage. Both massages were very good and I got some good advice from my facial masseuse on skin care. This evening I went to Kona Grill for dinner and to watch the game, NBA play-offs. From there, I checked out a few local bars and clubs. On 5th Avenue there are quite a few. (very good looking women here)
Wednesday May 26: Today, my big destination was Frank Lloyd Wright’s Taliesin West. This was where he worked during the winter months in his later years. He and his wife started an architecture school here. Once again, his “Organic Architecture” uses the natural elements in the surrounding region as the primary construction materials: rocks, boulders, and the local sand for grout. The entire compound is not even visible from a short distance, since it blends in with the surrounding environment (photos). It is all very impressive. This afternoon, I went for a short jog along the canal by Arizona State University. It was very hot and sunny. But, I enjoyed exercising outdoors, regardless. After cleaning up, I went back to the mall for dinner at Kona Grill to watch another NBA play-off game. I met a couple of guys at the bar. They invited me to join them at a bar called Gilligan’s. From there, Jess and I went to Mist, a young crowd, dance club.
Thursday, May 27: Day of R&R
Friday, May 28: Drove through downtown Phoenix on my way out of town. Downtown Phoenix has sports arenas and museums, but on the whole it is unimpressive – not a gathering place for the local community. Today, I drove from Phoenix to San Diego. Once out of the Phoenix metro area, it became obvious that the city of Phoenix is located in a desert. There are very large cacti and other desert flora (photos). Near the Arizona and California border, you head up into the mountains. You essentially go from one mountain range to the next and don’t come out until you get to downtown San Diego. It is amazing how the climate changes so quickly from the Arizona desert to the mountains. In the desert, it is around 100 degrees and very dry. On the east side of the mountains it cools off dramatically as you rise, but the flora is still of the dry climate variety and sparse with many rocks exposed. Once you get to the west side of the mountains, it remains cool (in the mid 60’s), but the flora is of a moist climate variety and it is lush and full.
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